Moors The Pleasure

Sydney Morning Herald

Thursday April 30, 1998

KIMBERLEY IVORY

Even in cooler weather, a Manning River houseboat can soothe the soul, writes KIMBERLEY IVORY.

ZOOMING along the Pacific Highway over the Manning River near Taree at 90km/h only hints at the reality of this massive delta system, with two openings to the sea and 150km of waterways. You get a better view from a houseboat.

A houseboat in winter? According to Richard Moore, owner of Manning River Holidays Afloat, winter is in fact probably the best time for a houseboat holiday.

Not only is the weather mild and the river calm, but also the rates are 50 per cent cheaper than in summer. Certainly, the faces leaving the boats this wet Easter were all smiling. And, having spent an April weekend on the Manning myself, I can vouch that swimming is still possible.

It is incredibly soothing to moor in some backwater and sit on the large sundeck with a glass of good wine as the sun sets over distant ranges. The only sound is the occasional plop of a fish or the lowing of cattle. The boat rocks gently on a pontoon, so sea sickness is unlikely for all but the most sensitive. Your mobile will work here, but do you need it? The boats have two-way radio.

No boating experience is necessary and maps show clearly where to go - and where not to go. Moore briefs you before you leave, yet somehow we still managed to run aground on a sandbar near Manning Point. Stay in deep water if you don't fancy wet feet.

It is worth getting wet feet, how-ever, to row across to the Coopernook Hotel. The restaurant serves great Thai and traditional Australian pub meals. A word of warning: the alcohol limit for boat drivers is also 0.05.

Our second sunset vigil was interrupted by rain, so we cuddled up inside with pasta and Scrabble instead. Rent a boat larger than your party to avoid cabin fever if it rains; they sleep six, eight, 10 and 12. The accommodation is kid-proof, rather like a floating caravan. But what it lacks in style is compensated for by the view. All boats are fully equipped with shower, toilet and even a black-and-white TV, if you must. Just bring linen, food and wine and the will to relax.

Your hardest choice will be whether to head straight for a quiet spot and drop anchor with just the odd dolphin for company or to explore the hospitality of the many villages dotting the Manning.

Don't plan to see the whole river; the houseboats only travel at eight knots, which in landlubber talk is about 12km/h.

The real delight of river life is the deep calm and the sweet sound of silence, though some people have complained the lapping water kept them awake ...

For October holidays book now, for Christmas by June. Other midweek and weekends dates are available.

Travel notes

Manning River Holidays Afloat,

PO Box 176, Taree 2430. Ph: (02) 65526271 Fax: (02)65512388. May 1-Sept 25, from $320 for a weekend (2pm Fri to 5pm Sun) or midweek (10am Mon-10am Fri) in a six-berth up to $800 for a weekend or midweek in a 12 berth.

© 1998 Sydney Morning Herald

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